How to Wash Bed Sheets
Bed sheets accumulate body oil faster than almost any other household textile — washing frequency and an overnight soak are the two factors that actually keep them bright.
Hats take on a remarkable amount of sweat, body oil, sunscreen, and outdoor grime over their lifetime — and yet most of them sit unwashed because their owners are not sure how to clean them without wrecking the shape. At our Maple Ridge facility we clean hats regularly, and the home approach is genuinely straightforward as long as you keep two rules in mind: pretreat properly, and never use the dryer.
Brim construction matters more than fabric type when it comes to hat washing. A rigid plastic brim tolerates moisture without warping. A cardboard brim — common in older and cheaper caps — can warp, buckle, and lose its shape permanently if saturated. If you are not sure which yours has, press gently on the brim: plastic springs back firmly, cardboard feels softer and compresses more easily.
Structured wool hats, embellished caps, and any hat with leather sweatbands or trim should be hand washed with care or sent to a professional.
The sweatband is where the most concentrated soiling lives: layers of salt crystals, body oil, and bacteria from repeated wear. A standard wash without pretreatment will reduce surface visible soil but may not address the embedded buildup.
Apply an enzymatic stain remover or a paste made from mild detergent and a small amount of water directly to the sweatband, and to any exterior areas with visible staining. Work it in gently with a soft brush or your fingertips. Leave it to dwell for at least 30 minutes before washing. This gives the active ingredients time to break down the protein-based and oil-based compounds that cause yellowing and odour.
Fill a clean sink or basin with cool to lukewarm water and add a small amount of dish soap or a gentle laundry detergent. Submerge the hat and work the solution into the fabric with your hands, paying particular attention to the sweatband, the underside of the brim, and any areas you pretreated. Use a soft-bristled brush for stubborn spots, applying gentle pressure only.
Rinse the hat thoroughly under cool running water or in several changes of clean water, pressing gently to flush out all soap. Residue left in the fabric dries stiff and can attract further soiling. Press — do not wring — excess water out when rinsing is complete.
This step is as important as the wash itself. Set the wet hat over an object that approximates the interior shape of the crown: a bowl, a round container, or a commercial hat form. The hat needs to dry with its shape supported, not collapsed flat. Smooth the brim and body into the correct position while the fabric is still pliable.
Leave it to air dry completely at room temperature. The dryer is not suitable for most hats. Heat can warp the brim, shrink the fabric, and degrade adhesives that hold the internal structure together. Even on a low setting, the tumbling action can distort a hat that has not fully dried.
If the sweatband or exterior fabric remains yellow after washing, a targeted treatment with 3% hydrogen peroxide on the still-damp area can help. Allow it to work as the hat air dries. For stubborn historic buildup on premium hats, bringing it to us is usually more effective than repeated home attempts.
The Laundry Brothers offers wash & fold and dry cleaning pickup across Greater Vancouver, seven days a week. See service areas →
Bed sheets accumulate body oil faster than almost any other household textile — washing frequency and an overnight soak are the two factors that actually keep them bright.
Most sneaker damage happens during drying, not washing — the right method starts with the right tools and ends with an air dry, not the dryer.
A tie is cut on the bias and has internal structure that soaking and agitation will shift permanently — spot cleaning and a professional when needed is the right call.