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How to Wash Wool

April 24, 20264 min readBy Johnson Yu

Wool is one of the oldest and most technically accomplished natural fibres in existence — naturally insulating, moisture-wicking, odour-resistant, and durable. It is also uniquely vulnerable to a specific failure mode that most other fibres do not share: felting. Understanding what causes felting, and why the standard home laundry process creates ideal conditions for it, is the whole basis of proper wool care.

Why Wool Felts

Wool fibres are covered in microscopic scales, similar in structure to fish scales or roofing tiles. In dry, room-temperature conditions, these scales lie flat and the fibre behaves normally. When you introduce heat, agitation, and moisture simultaneously — which is precisely what happens inside a standard washing machine — the scales lift, catch on neighbouring fibres, and lock together. This felting process is essentially irreversible. The result is a compact, stiff, shrunken version of the original garment that cannot be returned to its previous state.

At our Maple Ridge facility we encounter felted wool pieces regularly, and in most cases the damage cannot be meaningfully repaired.

Reading the Label First

Before you wash any wool garment, read the care label. Some modern wool — often labelled "machine washable" or "superwash wool" — has been treated to prevent felting and can tolerate a gentle machine cycle. Most traditional wool, structured wool garments, and wool blends with non-washable components need hand washing or professional cleaning.

If the label says dry clean only, that instruction is there because either the wool or the garment construction requires it. Follow it.

Setting Up the Hand Wash

Fill a clean basin with cool to lukewarm water. The temperature consistency matters: rinse water should match wash water temperature to avoid thermal shock, which can cause contraction and distortion. Add a small measure of a detergent formulated for wool — enzyme-free and without optical brighteners. Mix it into the water before introducing the garment.

The Washing Motion

Submerge the garment and use slow, gentle pressing motions — straight down and back up, without rubbing or twisting. The goal is to allow the water and detergent to flush through the fibre structure, loosening dirt and oils without creating the friction that triggers felting. A few minutes of gentle immersion is sufficient for everyday soil.

Rinse by draining and refilling with clean water at the same temperature. Press the garment gently to push soapy water through and flush it out. Repeat until the water runs clear.

Removing Water and Drying

Lift the garment out supporting its full weight. Squeeze to release water — never twist or wring. Place on a clean dry towel, roughly reshape, and roll the towel and garment together. Press firmly along the roll. Transfer to a fresh towel or mesh rack, reshape to the correct dimensions, and leave to air dry completely.

Hanging wool to dry is as damaging as machine washing it. A wet wool sweater is surprisingly heavy, and the weight of the water will stretch the shoulders and body progressively during drying. Once stretched this way, returning to the original shape is very difficult.

Long-Term Wool Care

Wool's natural properties mean it needs washing less often than most people assume. Its inherent lanolin content makes it resistant to odour; airing it after wear is often sufficient. When you do store wool for the season, make sure it is clean — body oils and food residue attract clothes moths even when they are invisible to the eye.

If the garment is a structured wool blazer, a tailored wool trouser, or any piece where the pressing and silhouette matter as much as the cleaning, professional care will deliver a result that hand washing cannot match.

Prefer to leave it to us? We clean and press wool at our facility every week — pickup is free.
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Frequently asked questions

What causes wool to shrink?
The combination of heat, agitation, and moisture causes the microscopic scales on wool fibres to latch together and felt. This compacts the fabric, reducing its size. Hot water and machine washing without a wool cycle are the most common causes.
Can I machine wash wool?
Only if the care label says it is machine washable and your machine has a genuine wool or hand-wash cycle. Use cold water, a wool-safe detergent, and the lowest spin speed available. Even then, hand washing gives you more control.
Is it possible to unshrink a wool garment?
For mild shrinkage, a soak with a wool-safe conditioner and gentle stretching while damp may partially restore the size. Heavily felted wool is usually permanent. Prevention is far easier than reversal.
How often should I wash wool clothing?
Wool is naturally odour-resistant and does not need frequent washing. Air the garment after wearing. Wash only when it has visible soiling, genuine odour, or has absorbed sweat from extended wear.
Can I tumble dry wool?
No, unless the care label explicitly states the item is tumble-dry safe. Even low heat in a dryer carries a risk of felting and shrinkage for most wool garments. Flat drying is always the safer option.

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